The first order of business is to cut out the various carcass parts from the sheet goods. In this case I'm using red oak plywood. Since I used Cutlist Plus to determine my bill of materials, I can also use it to generate cutting layouts for each piece of lumber. This is huge help, since it saves on materials, not to mention time, and reduces mistakes.
In the past, and when the occasion calls for it, I also produce layouts using graph paper or scale diagrams I print out, to figure out the best way to arrange parts on given sheet good sizes. In the field, it's normal to just wing it, but that produces a lot of waste and drives up costs, so I try to avoid that if possible.
So, using my layout, I put a sheet up on my cutting table and start cutting. Each part also gets a label, also generated using Cutlist Plus, so when I have a stack of parts I can tell what is what. This also speeds up the process. The old way of cut-assemble-cut-assemble on a piece by piece basis is slower and takes more space.
Since my shop space is limited, I start by cutting parts with a circular saw and a straight edge. I highly recommend the EZ Smart system, by Eureka Zone. It has a lot of features that set it apart of other straight edges, but the most important one to me is that it lines up right on the cut line, no allowance for the saw's base plate, which reduces the chance of a measuring mistake.
When cutting parts, I cut all my rips slightly over sized (usually 1/8"- 1/4"). Then, when all the parts of cut out, I set my table saw and rip all parts of the same width down to final size at once. This way, every part that's supposed to be the same width is the same width. I use a similar process for cross cuts of parts 16" wide or less, using my radial arm saw (RAS) and a guide stop.
This extra step will be eliminated in the future when shop space allows for a full size table saw with in and outfeed table and a full size cross-cut sled for 4'x8' sheets. But until then, this is a key step because consistency is so important in cabinet construction.
After cutting all the parts, I cut slots for biscuit joints where all the pieces come together. Biscuit or plate joints are a strong, fast way to join carcass parts. After cutting the slots, I drill pocket screw holes to fasten some of the parts together.
After the joints are prepared, I use a plunge router and template to bore holes for the shelf pins. This can be done with a drill, but I find the router and template method is faster and more consistent.
The final step before assembly is to stain hard to reach parts. The design of this cabinet calls for a 7 1/2" wide center section for a pull-out CD rack. Since this cabinet call for interior staining, I tack a few minutes to apply the stain to the parts that will make up this area. Later I will stain the rest of the cabinet using a spray system, but this area is too small for the spray gun and would be more difficult to stain by hand once assembled.
Now it's time to assemble the cabinet. Glue is applied to the biscuit joints, and the parts are fitted together. Pocket screws are tightened down to add strength and reduce the need for clamping.
After the sides, top, bottom and any fixed shelves and partitions are glued and screwed together, the carcass is ready for the back. The back of a cabinet is very important because it adds a lot of strength to the carcass. How the back is applied varies from cabinet to cabinet depending on the design considerations.
For entertainment centers, I prefer to use individual panels for each compartment and insert them into dadoes, using shims and hot-melt glue to fill any voids. This method reduces vibrations which distort sound. This cabinet only has one small fixed back in the CD pull-out compartment. So vibration is a very minor concern there.
The other three compartments of the carcass will use removable back panels to allow easy access for wiring components together. This creates a problem. Since the rigidity of a fixed back panel will be lost the cabinet will be subject to wracking and twisting, so another method of strengthening the carcass must be used.
In this case, I can kill three birds with one stone. I use hardwood boards set 1 1/2" in from the back, running up each side of a compartment and fitting snuggly between the top and bottom of each compartment. These strips are glued and pocket screwed to the sides, top and bottom. This helps to strengthen the carcass. By cutting the back panel 1 1/2" shorter than the opening on both sides, I create an air channel to help cool electronics, a hidden wire chase and I strengthen the cabinet.
Now the carcass is finished. Next: The face frame and trim.
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