Step Three: Face Frames

Once the carcass is finished, the next step is applying the face frame. In the case of this cabinet, the style is "European", which typically means no face frame, but edge banding over the plywood edges. That just isn't up to par for me, so I take a different approach.

The front edges of the carcass will be finished using 3/4" x 3/4" solid red oak, except for the top and bottom stiles which will be wider pieces. Using solid wood, rather than edge banding, is really an aesthetic decisions, I think it looks better and my clients do to. It's more expensive and time consuming, but the finished results are worth it. Solid wood edged plywood also wears better over time. Edge banding is notorious for peeling off, glued on wood is much less likely to separate.

I start by ripping all my pieces from 3/4" stock. First I rip each piece down to 13/16" on the table saw, then set my jointer to 1/32" and run them through until they match the thickness of the actual plywood, which is 23/32" (check by feel, not by measuring). By starting at 13/16" I can make a pass through the jointer on both edges of the pieces, which helps to clean up saw marks. Then if I need to make another pass or two to get the right fit I do.

Once the pieces of the right width, I cut them to length on the RAS (a miter saw would work just as well). Then I use pocket screws to attach the top and bottom rails to the stiles, which creates a four sided frame. This frame is attached using biscuits, glue and a few brad nails.



Finally, the fixed shelf and partition edges are cut and applied using the same method.

All that's left is to apply the moldings and the cabinet itself is done.



Next: Frame and Panel Doors